OSCAR ADLER ca. 1905 Grenadilla Boehm Carl Fischer (marked)  Boehm; Grenadilla wood with German Silver key work and tenon rings, flute Circa 1905. (I believe it to be an Oscar Adler flute imported by Carl Fischer, a New York instrument dealer)                                        CLICK ON ANY PICTURE FOR LARGER VERZION       NOTE:  THESE ARE EXTREMELY LARGE PICTURES AND MAY TAKE A WHILE ON DIALUP Condition : FLUTE :    UNPLAYABLE, VERY DIRTY                    CASE:       COVERING COMPLETELY DISINTEGRATED                                      INTERIOR EXTREMELY DIRTY

Components as received

PROBLEMS AS RECEIVED

SOLUTIONS AND REPAIRS

1: Head joint upper crown cork loose

1: Replace head joint upper crown cork

(Picture to follow)

2:  Seal and fill head joint crack at tenon with ground up Grenadilla wood and cyanoacrylite combination.  Sand and buff sealed crack to a smooth finish.

2: Head joint cracked at tenon joint

3:  Main body upper tenon (box joint) tube missing (later found to be stuck in head joint tenon)

3:  Gently remove stuck body tenon tube from head joint tenon, thoroughly clean and reset circular configuration of tube, clean out fitting for tube in upper main body, insert the tube making sure it is aligned with the inner bore.

4:  Main body upper tenon joint wood housing for tenon joint tube missing upper part.

4:  Rebuild upper part of wood joint with quick set epoxy and ground grenadilla compound.  Oil the inner and outer bore using "Golden Teak" all natural oil.

(typical old air-seals prior to re-corking)

5: Several holes in the lower main body joint opposite the D, E, F keys.

5:  Repair all holes in the body with Grenadilla wood and cyanoacrylite  combination then sand and buff smooth.

6:  Rebuild the D tone hole using Grenadilla wood and cyanoacrylite combination and using jewelers wax as a template.

6:  D key tone hole badly broken all the way to the lower body tenon. (now THERE'S an understatement!)

7:  . Lower body tenon completely missing (later found to be wedged in the foot joint).

7:  Remove lower body tenon and tenon tube from the footjoint and reinsert it in its proper position in the lower main body. Reset the tenon with Epoxy and ground Grenadilla for an airtight seal.

8:  Two major cracks in the foot joint

8: Seal cracks as previously described

9:  Foot joint tenon inner tube missing altogether!

9:  Fabricate a new inner tenon tube from 19mm diameter brass tubing and drill out the D# hole to duplicate the original configuration of the tenon.  Set and seal the new tenon tube with clear quickset epoxy for an airtight setting.

10:  B trill spatula missing (broken off above its elbow)

10.: Cut an existing German Silver B trill key spatula from a spare part and refit and solder it on to the original existing damaged B trill key.  Check all clearances to make sure there are no conflicting parts.

11:  E key missing center post for pad and a poorly repaired hole in the center of the key done with now disintegrating solder.

11:  Cut a circular piece of thin German Silver to fit the hole in the key and sweat solder it to the inside of the key...then drip solder the existing hole, finally file and buff to the original surface.  Replace the inner original missing post with a mini flange and screw and washer to secure the pad. Thoroughly clean the crack and butress/seal with fresh silver solder.

(Picture to follow)

12:  C E G G# keys all missing center pad securing posts. All pads completely hardened and deteriorated.     G# spatula cracked at the tube joint.

12:  Repad with Valentino synthetic, medium thickness pads and replacing the missing center posts on the C E G G# keys with modern mini flanges, screws, and washers

(Picture to follow)

13:   Test all three sections assembled for air leaks.

14:  Play test and do final pad adjustment over a three day period to allow for settling of the wood and pads.

Solutions:    1.  Remove outside cover thoroughly, seal all cracks and glue all joints then rub down wood with alcohol. Remove all hardware including hinges, footer tacks and lock cover.  Sand wood to a soft finish and stain with Weld Wood  red mahogany stain (3 coats) .  Coat with a semi-gloss polyurethane lightly sanding between coats to achieve a durable pleasing finish.

Problems with Case:   1.  Outside cover shredded and mostly missing + Several cracks in the wood and separation of the end joints (See picture at top of page)   2.  All hardware badly tarnished (See picture at top of page)   3.  Inner velvet very dirty (See picture at top of page)   4.  Remnants of moth larvae in nooks and crannys of interior case including lock. (Who in his right mind wants to see pictures of moth larvae... new OR   mummified?)

2. Remove all tarnish from original hardware and buff to a high polish and reinstall.

3. Disinfect interior velvet and clean. 4. (Fed found moth larvae to pet snake.......:-} )         BACK TO MAIN PAGE

leftovers: 05-1 lower body foot joint connexion 05-2 lower body foot joint connexion 05-6 lower tenon exposed 06-1 lower tenon metal tube 06-3 lower tenon pre-cork 06-4 lower tenon pre-cork (2) 07-3 upper body keyrib 07-4 upper body keyrib (2)