started  02-07-2016
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Above is a picture of two sightly different styles of a "flop-over" "smart-phone" style phone case in Macrame.  There is
really NO reason for someone to either want or make such a beast, as a perfectly good and professionally well-made
case which will do the same job (and a few more!) can be had in ballistic nylon (kevlar) or hand-stitched leather for an
appreciable fraction of the cost of doing this monster, not to mention that your hands will be considerably happier with
you, but they ARE pretty and make an amazing gift for a "special someone", as well as just being a great demonstration
of the square-knotter's skills and worthy of passing down the years to successive generations as a work of art if not a
functional (for we all WILL have these communications devices implanted in the next twenty years, rely on it!) object.

At any rate, the instructions contained in the following pages and also be applied to making a macrame pouch of any size
or for any purpose.   I have been reminded by several people that similar instructions for such items have been available
for nearly a century from (first) P. C. Herwig's many pamphlets from the 1920's and then the massive (and at times
incomprehensible) "
Encyclopaedia of Knots and Fancy Ropework" by Raoul Graumont and John Hensel, published
in 1940.   I had forgotten about the section devoted to Macrame items, and so had to "invent" many of these techniques
for myself.
All content these pages ©2004-2010 Frayed Knot
Arts.  All rights reserved.  Reproduction or use
prohibited without prior written permission.
We need to start with a discussion of the line used for the project.  

With the loss of the large ring-spinning machines used to create cotton and linen "codlines", there was, for some time, no
source for a sufficiently small yet sturdy enough line to permit making these items which, in the normal course of
existence, encounter quite a bit of wear and tear.   

With the invention and use of polyester thin lines in a radial-braiding machine to make (among other things)
venetian-blind cordage, we now have a viable alternative to the old cod-line, and one that comes in MANY more colours,
to boot.

One caveat:  Be sure that you either buy "solution-dyed" line (where the colour goes all the way thru the line AND core
and will not bleed when wet nor abrade away onto white or light coloured clothing) OR buy (CONSIDERABLY cheaper)
"flash-dyed" line (the normally available line) and wash it thoroughly prior to making something up from it. No guarantees
on colour-fastness or resistance to colour ablation, but I will guarantee a lightening of the colour by a noticeable
amount.   For colours, your best bet is to find someone (or learn how to do it yourself) and have WHITE line dyed to your
specific colour wishes.  While this can involve a 1000 Metre spool of line (most economical way to purchase this stuff),
someone like me can easily go thru a spool that large inside of two weeks, so you need determine your needs and
desires against the economic realities of your situation.

It WILL be understood by the reader that the forgoing in no way implies that "polyester blind cord" is the "sine qua non" of
the modern age.  I had a person in Texas who was putting up 100' hanks of a VERY nice imitation of the old codline in
cotton, starched and durable, but he, to, was forced to leave production by economics.  Should you find a source for a
modern equivalent to this line, PLEASE let me know at the email link below.
Line sizes really are determined by the size of what you're making.   A phone case is best made with 1.2-1.4mm line as it
gives great protection and nice detailing.   Art objects can be anything from 1.2mm up thru... well... as large as you'd
want.   It is entirely up to you as the artist and your customer as the moneybags to determine.   THERE IS NO WRONG
SIZE, only one that is too large or too small.  (I would hate to try a smartphone case out of .09mm line... MiGod, we'd be
there working long after I died!)
The following pages will be divided into sections covering tools, work space, gluing, concepts, fancy details, etc., and
most, if not all, of these are discoverable either on several of my other tutorial pages or on the WEB by searching with
GOOGLE or your favourite personal search engine.  The advantage of this tutorial is that these are either all in one
spot or are referenced for easy discovery.

As always, if - in your perusal of the pages - you find an egregious error (or even one not so egregious)(
I've no idea what
that means, I just like typing it!
) let me know so I can correct it.


There are so many "gotta-do-this-first" things to be considered that I just KNOW I'm gonna forget one (or more) or get
them in some arcane dis-order, so you may want to come back from time-to-time to see if I've changed anything.

Several of the preliminary things to be done are already listed in their own tutorial pages, so I'll just link to them in the
article and add any clarifying information that will obsfucate things even more.

1: BASIC information on doing Macrame, the "belly-hook", making spacers (you'll need at LEAST 22 "single pair"
spacers and
3 or 4 "double pair" spacers for the phone cases) and general instructions on making the knotted "field".

The TABLE which makes life SO much easier when doing this sh...stuff.

3:  (I know there's a third... there's GOTTA be a third...